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Boat

  1. [x] Boat Registration IN380JH? ($101.00)
  2. [ ] Trailer License: 520606 = not!
  3. [x] Trailer S/N: Riveted plate: MV1N? 68775 1ND Etched: 316-12-7246
  4. [x] Boat Starcraft Holiday 18' S/N: 991874
  5. [x] Motor: 1970 Evinrude Starflite 85hp Model *85093D S/N:E06865
  6. [x] Assess project
  7. [x] Buy Tire tool (~ $12)
  8. [x] Remove old tires (a little gas for round trip)
  9. [x] Buy Break/Turn Lites (~ $25?)
  10. [x] Buy/install tires (~ $120?), confirm roadworthiness (LOL)
  11. [x] Drag it home ( < 1/2 tank of gas ~$15? + $.95 Red Pop)
  12. [x] Brace the road cover for rain
  13. [x] Cap the jack (tape, pvc)
  14. [x] Wash the day cover and inspect for rips/fit (1 pinhole)
  15. [x] Wash the road cover
  16. [x] Buy/install rope for the road cover ($5.97)
  17. [x] Buy/install 6 tarp pull downs on road cover ($5.94)
  18. [x] Grind the transom studs flat/prep for paint/non-skid paint ($4.00)
  19. [x] Remove gunwale runner covering/prep for paint/non-skid paint ($4.00)
  20. [x] Dry it all out
  21. [x] Wash the outside and deck
  22. [x] Trailer hitch ball size = 2". Free and grease the receiver.
  23. [x] Install Type B-1 fire extinguisher (old was 2 1/2 lb) “Marine Type USCG Approved” Check this
  24. [x] Install 2" hitch ball
  25. [x] Remove Trailer Lights
  26. [x] Buy 4 amber side lites ($21.16)
  27. [x] Buy #6 hardware, a roll of wire, and eye splices for grounds ($9.25)
  28. [x] Wash out/inspect fuel line
  29. [x] Inspect engine tilt lock
  30. [x] Inspect/Test the steering
  31. [x] Inspect/Test throttle linkage
  32. [x] Buy/install new battery/trade in old ones ($74.06)
  33. [x] Test running lites - Replace Nav Bulb: P/N S 90
  34. [x] Fix horn. Intermittent?
  35. [x] Install replacement bilge pump
  36. [x] inspect bilge plug
  37. [x] Install Trailer Lights
  38. [x] Test Trailer Lights
  39. [x] Grease the trailer winch
  40. [x] Inspect winch line
  41. [x] Dump old gas/wash out cans
  42. [x] Buy new gas (est. $20)
 * 90 octane or more
  1. [x] Buy 1 pint 2 cycle oil ($1)
 * 50:1 mix
  1. [x] Clean up the L76V? Spark Plugs/gap?
      S/B L77V? per manual gap .024 - .028
  1. [x] Repack wheel bearings/new seals Napa PN 14975 ($20.74)
  2. [x] Install trailer light jack on truck
  3. [x] Test the fuel pump
  4. [x] Change the lube in the lower unit, Buy lube and seals. ($8.50) 24 oz.
 * Check: 10 hours then every 50 hours
 * Change: 100 hours or seasonally
 * Premium Type C Gear Lube for electric shift gear cases used on Johnson and Evinrude outboards ('62-'72),
  1. [x] Clean the points.
  2. [x] Start the engine
  3. [x] Inspect hull seams
  4. [x] Secure the ski rope mounts
  5. [x] Inspect/Test engine mount
  6. [x] License Plate/trailer registration (October - see hours below)
  7. [x] Buy the engine manual...Dwell gap S/B .010 ($10.46)
  8. [ ] Test Truck lights... Parking Lites don't pass thru... Replaced the controller
  9. [ ] Test Lighting system
  10. [ ] Clean it all out
  11. [ ] Secure the bilge compartment grate
  12. [ ] Wax the hull
  13. [ ] Clean the Carburetors
  14. [ ] Remove Fish Finder hardware, Buy/install a plastic bucket. ($1.00)
  15. [ ] Tune Up (Doc)
  16. [ ] Buy/install Speedometer sensor (Doc)
  17. [ ] Torque hitch ball - 240 in lbs
  18. [ ] Safe Boating Course ~ next chapter ~ Knots ~ USCG Nav Rules
  19. [ ] State checklist
  20. [ ] Go for a ride!
  • Fenders
  • Dock lines
  • Anchors
  • PFD's (Ty. 1,2,3, or 5)
  • One throwable FD (Ty. 4)
  • Paddle
  1. [ ] Throw the other seat in
  2. [ ] Drag it down to New Amsterdam/throw it in the river
  3. [ ] Trade or sell?
    • Sunday: CLOSED
    • Monday CLOSED
    • Tuesday: 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
    • Wednesday: 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
    • Thursday: 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
    • Friday: 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
    • Saturday: 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.
    • 503249a Oct 02
    • 520606 Oct 07
    • 32496a Oct 98

Spark plug for 85hp. 1973 - 1980 L77JC4? or QL77JC4? .030 gap Is 65 hp similar? You need a 50:1 mix. That is one pint per 6 gallons. Fresh, 87 octane unleaded and alcohol free gas and TC-W3 rated outboard oil.

Parts catalog

Winterize

If it has an outboard, the motor will drain itself when out of the water. (Inboard motors have to be drained or anti-freezed.)If you have left-over mixed fuel, just add fuel stablizer to it. Change the lube in the lower unit with manufacturer's recommended lube and grease all fittings on motor and trailer wheels. Next Spring: Clean or replace the spark plugs, or get it tuned up, if it sounds like it needs it. Mix fresh gas as soon as you can, also. Good Luck! Edit: I keep the battery trickle-charged up over the winter, also. You can remove it, but it isn't necessary to do it to charge it up.

Winterizing Older OMC Two-Stroke Outboards

 by James W. Hebert

In northern climates most outboard motors are not used from October to May. Preparing a motor for a long period of non-use like this is called "winterizing." A brief guideline for the proper procedure to prepare an older two-stroke motor for a long lay-up period is presented below. These instructions are based on recommendations from the master marine mechanics at LOCKEMAN'S HARDWARE AND BOATS, one of the oldest sellers and service providers of Outboard Marine Corporation's (OMC) EVINRUDE and JOHNSON brand outboard motors in the world. To their sage advice I have added some further explanations and notations. The specific products mentioned are Bombardier Recreational Product's (BRP) EVINRUDE/JOHNSON branded products. There are similar products made by most all outboard manufacturers, as well as generic and aftermarket brands, which can be used. Purchase Check List

In addition to the typical hand tools needed, before beginning the lay-up procedure you should have on hand the following materials:

  • Fuel Conditioner. The recommended BRP product is 2+4® FUEL CONDITIONER. Do not confuse this product with other similar fuel BRP additives such as FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER. Fuel conditioner will help preserve the gasoline during the lay-up and help prevent the formation of gum and varnish in the carburetors.
  • Fogging Oil. The recommended BRP product is STORAGE FOGGING OIL. This product is packaged in an aerosol can. Do not confuse it with a similar BRP product labeled ENGINE TUNER! Fogging oil is designed to cling to engine internal surfaces and provide a protective film to prevent oxidation. BRP fogging oil is available with a Schrader valve adaptor for use with engines that provide a Schrader valve for inducing fogging oil.
  • Gear Lube. There are many different grades of gear lubrication available. Check your engine owner's manual for advice. There are three grades of BRP-branded lubricant available. Select the appropriate product based on the age and type of your OMC/BRP gear case:
 o H.P.F. gear lube is used in all engines 1994 and newer;
 o HI-VIS gear lube is used in all mechanical shift motors prior to 1994;
 o PREMIUM BLEND gear lube is used in all electric shift motors.
  • Marine Grease. The recommended BRP product is TRIPLE GUARD GREASE.
  • Engine Flusher. A engine flusher or hose adapter is required to run the engine.
  • Spark Plugs. Consult your owner's manual for the recommended type of spark plug and the recommended spark plug gap setting.
  • Anti-corrosion Protective Spray . BOESHIELD T-9 or OMC D.P.L are recommended.

Winterizing Procedure

To prepare the engine for a long period of non-use, perform the following procedure:

  1. Add fuel conditioner to the fuel tank. Consult the label on the fuel conditioner for the recommended proportions. When adding the fuel conditioner to an internal tank with a long filler hose, it is a good idea to follow up with some additional gasoline in order to flush the additive from the filler hose and assure it is introduced to the tank. In the case of large internal tanks, it is a good idea to provide some agitation to the tank to insure good mixing. The easiest way to do this is to put the boat into motion, either on the water or on the trailer. Small portable tanks can be mixed directly and agitated by hand.
  2. Remove propeller from shaft. Engines being run on a hose attachement should always have the propeller removed to avoid any potential for contact with a moving propeller. It is also a good practice to remove the propeller at least once a season to prevent it from corroding in place on the shaft. Apply marine grease to the shaft. Be sure to remove the thrust washer. See your owner's manual for details. Install the hose attachment and supply it with the appropriate flow of water.
  3. Run engine. The engine should be run at fast idle speeds for at least 15 minutes. This warms up the engine and insures that the treated fuel has circulated into the entire fuel system. Large displacement engines will consume fuel rapidly. Smaller engines may have to be run longer to insure that the treated fuel has been circulated. This is particularly true if there are large volume filter canisters in the fuel system. A water separator filter can hold enough gasoline to run a small engine for quite a while. When you are certain the treated fuel has been circulated throughout the engine, shut it off.
  4. Induce fogging oil. On many OMC engines there is a Schrader valve fitting in the fuel system which allows direct attachment of the fogging oil canister. If your engine has this handy device, attach the hose from the fogging oil to the Schrader valve. If you engine does not have the Schrader valve fitting, you will most likely have to remove the air silencer cover to expose the carburetor throttle bodies. With the fogging oil either in hand or connected to the Schrader valve, re-start the engine and set it to fast idle. Induce the fogging oil into the carburetors (via the valve or by spraying it into the throttle bodies). CAUTION: If spraying into the throttle bodies be careful to not allow the plastic spray tube to be ingested into the motor! CAUTION: If using a Schrader valve attachment, be certain to return the fuel primer valve to the closed (clockwise) position after removing the fogging oil attachment; this valve may be inadvertantly opened by the turning of the attachment as it is removed. Continue inducing fogging oil until the engine exhaust smokes excessively. (One can is sufficient for a V6 engine.) As the fogging continues the engine may eventually stall. Do not restart. If the engine does not completely stall out, shut off the engine when a small volume of fogging oil remains (about 1/10 of a can). Shut off hose and remove hose attachment.
  5. Remove spark plugs. Spray a generous amount of fogging oil directly into the cylinders via the spark plug holes. By hand, rotate the engine flywheel clockwise to change the piston position and spread oil to cylinder walls. Inspect spark plugs. Clean and re-gap the existing plugs if serviceable, or install new plugs. (I recommend installing the new plugs in the spring, after the engine has been returned to service and the fogging oil has been burned off.) Consult the owner's manual for instructions on how to index the spark plug position as required on some direct-injection motors.
  6. Change gear case lubricant. Allow all water to drain from the lower unit of the engine. Tilt the engine fully up, allow the water to drain, then lower engine to fully down, and again allow water to drain. Remove the two drain screws from the lower unit and allow the lubricant to drain. Inspect the drain screws for proper gaskets or o-ring seals. Inspect the seats of the drain screws for debris from old seals or o-rings. If the head of the screw is mutilated, replace with new screws. NOTE: the new BRP drain screws have a hex insert for better grip instead of a flat-blade screwdriver slot. They also have newer style nylon washers to replace the older o-ring style seal. Inspect the the removed lubricant for signs of water intrusion. Generally if water is emulsified in the lubricant it gives it a milky appearance. If any sign of water is noted, the gear case should be pressure tested for leaks and repaired if necessary. Re-fill the gear case with the proper lubricant and to the proper level. Re-install drain screws.
  7. Clear speedometer pickup. If your engine has a speedometer pickup tube on the lower unit it should be blown clear of any water with moderate air pressure (less than 25-PSI).
  8. Lubricate all grease fittings. A small grease gun will be useful to add grease to all areas of the motor with Zerk fittings. The tilt tube and tiller tube areas must be greased to prevent corrosion, particularly in boats used in saltwater. Grease the steering ram, as well as other areas on the motor as directed by the owner's manual or factory service manual.
  9. Wipe down the engine block and inside of cowling. Clean any accumulated spills of fuel and oil. Spray engine block with protective coating such as BOESHIELD T-9 or OMC/BRP D.P.L (Dries, Protects, Lubricates) Install cowling. Clean and wax cowling. Spray tilt and trim mechanism.
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Page last modified on September 30, 2008, at 06:14 AM EST